Close-Shave Railway Market

Our jovial driver advised that we arrive in Maeklong by 10:30 a.m. to catch the morning train. Rain accompanied the early part of the journey, but the clouds soon cleared, allowing sunlight to frame our arrival.

And yes—photographs really don’t do justice to just how close the railway tracks run through the market.

The story of Maeklong is well documented: when the railway line was constructed in 1905, traders chose to coexist with the tracks rather than relocate. What was once a quiet local market gradually transformed into one of Thailand’s most photographed tourist attractions.

Despite this intrusion, Maeklong has retained its original purpose. It remains very much a local market, with far fewer tourist-oriented stalls than one might expect. Instead, you’ll find everyday essentials—fresh fish, meat, fruits, and vegetables—laid out with practical efficiency.

Visitors walk directly along the railway tracks, which double as the market’s central pathway. You’ll know the train is approaching when, almost instinctively, traders begin folding back their awnings and shifting their wares from the centre—an operation completed in mere seconds.

The train’s passage is brief. It slows as it cuts through the market before stopping slightly beyond it at the station, where passengers disembark and photos are inevitably taken.

Interconnecting Trading Lifelines

In complete contrast, Damnoen Saduak demands that you take to the water to fully appreciate it.

Our driver shared that Bangkok itself hosts numerous floating markets, a legacy of the city’s extensive canal system. For decades, these waterways—many of which connect to the mighty Chao Phraya River—served as Thailand’s primary transportation and trading lifelines.

We had experienced this firsthand the night we arrived, using ferry services to travel to ICONSIAM, the landmark riverside shopping complex.

The Damnoen Saduak canal network consists of approximately 200 canals, centred around a 32-kilometre main canal linking the Maeklong and Tha Chin rivers. Dug between 1866 and 1868 during the reign of King Rama IV, the canal system gave rise to what would become Thailand’s most famous floating market.

I can’t recall the exact boat fare—truthfully, I was more concerned with whether I could survive getting onto the boat, let alone sitting sprawled-legged once aboard.

To my surprise, I enjoyed the ride immensely.

While the canals are far from crystalline, what struck me was the absence of overpowering odours—even when boats slowed to allow others to pass or to facilitate purchases. Transactions are simple: you either buy directly from vendors paddling alongside or ask to stop at one of the many piers lining the canals.

Unlike Maeklong, Damnoen Saduak is unmistakably tourist-oriented, though those seeking greater variety might find Bangkok’s Chinatown more rewarding for food. Still, the experience of navigating the waterways remains uniquely compelling.

I did struggle slightly hauling myself from the boat onto the jetty at the end of the ride—but do I regret it?

Not one bit. This is a definite inclusion in any Bangkok itinerary.